Darker when we leave now because of the time change in Spain. I like this because for me it is such a special time of day. That feeling of aloneness, the explorer, seeing things before others, and personally when I’m feeling ‘off’, it works better for me when I’m in my own company and/or Corrie’s. Then there’s the rare possibility of seeing the sun roll round in this very cloudy part of the world. We [...]
We dressed for rain because, after all, it is Portugal, well this morning it is but after about 10 it will be Spain but it will be 11 because of the time difference which means we’ll arrive late, but no, there will be an extra hour of daylight...I think. Phew! but we still might need our rain gear in Spain, because it is, after all Galicia, and it always rains. It was only ‘dodging puddles [...]
We awoke to a misty window with small piles of ice made up of tiny rice-sized balls, which we were later to feel as light hail. Breakfast with a busload of German tourists and 4 pilgrims, 2 Dutch women and a young Belgian couple (she had the blister), started our day. Fully rain geared up except for my New Balance shoes that never seem to get wet anyway, we headed out on our familiar cobbled [...]
Today is the first time the rain isn’t having a break so we won’t be having one either, so it’s off over a very long medieval bridge, pristine because it seems the weather has everyone remaining cosy inside. It’s a day where you become creative with your path-taking choices, edging round puddles, making a new track or just dancing on protruding rocks. Lots of younger people today mostly from Germany, Holland and Belgium, with a [...]
A friend of mine in Sydney suggested I try the Bacalhau or Cod fish as most know it by and have it with a white wine, so I did. I firstly tried the whole fish with vegetables which I found delightful. Last night it was in its flaky form mixed into rice with oil and herbs. I did not find this so good maybe because I like to choose what to mix it with myself [...]
We left town on Easter Monday where the celebration of Christ was in full swing. There were older people dancing in the square where the main street’s decorations culminated. The fireworks that sounded like large gun fire continued from the day before, as did the music. Also on the day before we were greeted by a Priest and a dozen locals of all ages offering a huge gold plated Christ for us to kiss and [...]
Dinner was very expensive at our hotel even though we get a huge discount on our lodgings, so decided to look around this small village. We found the one place in town on the village road, so close that it also took up the footpath space. Two younger Dutch women said hello and sat next to us where that footpath should have been. Our food was superb and we shared it with a bottle of [...]
We left this unusual village with a multitude of roads meeting in the grassy town square. Our lodgings were the only reason we needed many exits in case some were blocked. It was freezing cold and we wanted a heater (which is obligatory in the cheapest of accommodation) but our host insisted the cabinet was full of blankets to wrap around ourselves. Maybe a small thing but we still need a camino to sort out [...]
It was an out of the way village and Dolores seemed to be the only restaurant in town. This was a good thing because the food was the best cooked food we have experienced in Portugal. From the most tender beef to the tastiest chicken (hard to find) with vegetables (don’t often see), a fresh salad, a beautiful wine, and a home made version of creme brulee for a stunningly low price from engaging hosts [...]
No more washing today, the streets are clean but wet, and the big dryer is about to emerge from its slow shifting cover. We’re on the move again venturing out into a perfect day. As we opened our guide book to check directions I thought of the delightful young Canadian woman and her new Camino friend, a young Italian man. We met them in Porto resting on their first day off since Lisbon and fell [...]
