We’re having a rest in Porto looking through the old city and exploring the valley walls of the river Duoro as we look for a place somewhere in Portugal to do some writings on the trip in order to continue my awareness raising. So we’ll stay here for a couple of days to get the feel of the place and then decide whether this will be the place.
Hi dear Will and Coralie!
Having been reassured by Will that my day-by-day summary of your pilgrimage might be useful for you, I’m delighted to continue this. It certainly helps me to get a real feel for many of your wonderful experiences.
Day Eight:
Heavy rains not dampening your enthusiasm as you start your 20 km walk to Los Arcos.
Poppies!!
Will explains contrast between many pilgrims using poles to reach out in front to keep selves steady and the Nordic poles – which to me make a lot of sense.
Easter parade at Alberque in Los Arcos.
Visual delights of the Romanesquechurch there, which speaks of past love, passion and exquisite architecture.
Day Nine:
Who would have thought? Phantom of the Opera concert by a group of children!
Light-hearted banter with three young singing women.
Viana: small storybook village, with narrow streets, full bars and raging Spanish fiesta.
Will defines a pilgrim’s meal.You try to keep the fat on fading bodies.
Day Ten:
Leaving this medieval village without a soul to be seen, guided by the light of the half- moon and the northern star.Swapping of blister stories – varying degrees of seriousness!
Interactions plummet from rich discussions to survival stories.
In the new village, Navarette, a small curious house – at the entrance a large curious woman who stamps curious pilgrims’ passports to verify they have travelled the distance – her mother started this in 1982.
Day Eleven:
Arrive in Azofra and sit in the main street ( a tiny footpath) for lunch.
Deserted town: combination of siesta and abandoned homes.
Will advises us to walk over the Pyrenees rather than around it – stunning views and meeting so many people that way.
Another delightful sonnet by Will!
Day Twelve:
Yellow arrows keep guiding pilgrims on the path to Camino.
Wheat and canola fields, massive bales of hay.
Rain songs, and Will’s speech exercises scare away the birds.
You enter Redecilla, a one-street, one-bar town, after your biggest day yet.
Day Thirteen:
Many villages are only 5 kms apart.
Coincidental (?) meeting with a man who shared kindergarten, primary school and secondary school with you, Will, now meeting 50 years later!
Great discussions and resolutions in relation to corrupt politics, the environment and world culture.
Day Fourteen:
Leave Belorado, with no moonlight but able to follow ‘north start’ in form of a man with a torch on his head.
Tortilla gets you up the first hill, croissant up the second hill and pine forest, and coffee gets you through the thick mud.
Meet Aussie whose brother-in-law has had Parkinsons for 25 years.
Stay in second hotel to date. Prices vary – from 5 euros for dormitory, 20 euros for private room, etc.
Cross into Spanish Basque Pyrenees – Basque are the oldest ethnic group in Europe.