It rained all night but at 5.00 the stars could be seen, so rain pants on as a precaution (not needed) and on to a quiet tar road with my tiny torch our headlight. The bar owner gave us a heads up re. where to turn off so didn’t need to be acutely awake and we stayed on the tar for a few km because we knew it had the only coffee shop till home again.

Rain clouds hovered all around, mist lifted from the valleys, while raindrops on the red berries were evidence of a wet night. For a change we were walking along the valley (we dropped down a lot coming into Gallina) and it gave me a whole new perspective with a feeling of smallness, rather than a more dominant one.

The landscape remains similar to days gone by but more open, able to see the landforms well into the distance. We walked with the sound of a trickling creek for sometime, such a soothing feeling, crossing it a few times as our paths met. Up into the hills was not so calm as there were gunshots all around. This has been a constant since we entered Tuscany many days ago with ducks being added to my previous list of victims.

Radicofani is perched on the dome of a hill so our last 5km was a mostly gradual climb with a few challenging bits in between, but a cool overcast day made it our perfect walking condition, the sun coming out close to the village like a welcoming yellow carpet.

We looked at various places to stay but were not happy, although part of this journey is about not being too fussy, but we’re old so we need to be a bit precious at times. The last shot was the macelleria owner who was closing for lunch and offered us a room in his house – lovely man, good price, and as I’ve always wanted, a clothes line outside our window above the street!!

Other benefits – a lounge, a kitchen, bathroom of course – it’s really a house because he lives elsewhere and the other room is vacant – there’s also fruit in the fridge, washing powder and a real double bed – how could we be any happier – and the village – pristine, and being on a sharp hill – unusual with its often very steep streets.