Breakfast in the plaza of a little village at 5.30 was a gorgeous start to our day. The locals were all there, drinking coffee, talking – in the cool of the early morning.

We continued on similar terrain – flat – through grain fields fed by 2-6 metre wide canals, a system started, I believe, by the ancient Romans. Visually the canals have a cooling effect, while every now and then when the water flows to another level it sounds like a small waterfall followed by sudden rushes and tiny waves, otherwise there is simple silence.

Ordering coffee at a village en route, I asked the owner if he had Wifi – “none in this town” he replied. I thought he was a bit surly but when I went to pay he said – “it is free for you”, and pushed a bottle of cold water into my hands. Things happen when you are old and carrying a pack and maybe looking upset.

Our destination was sure to have Wifi, we thought. But the town’s ‘A’ and ‘B’ Grade hotels were all booked out. Corrie had developed 2 blisters (the first in 1,600 kms), and it was too hot for us to continue anyway. I approached the San Roco’s ‘donativo’ for a bed. Not only our own room, but a new a/c to cool us down in a spotless apartment which we now share with 3 nice men (Swiss, French and Mexican). The first walkers we have seen, they do exist!

We ate Spaghetti Marinara at nearby Al Capriccio, a classy restaurant with fair prices. Corrie, the normal class act she is, had the audacity to ask for cheese, and the waitress walked away muttering “no cheese with fish” as she gave her the Italian ‘you should know better brush’ on her arm. Of course she knew that … and that she wouldn’t get it. However, we loved the food and wine from Costa D’Amalfi, and will probably have to go back this evening for dessert so that I can post this —— didn’t make it!