Final instructions from Sylvie – how to lock the main door, where to leave the key, the best way to join the track, led to more discoveries about our rafter room. Our fascinating lodgings are the remains of a castle, the leftovers from ‘looters’ during the French Revolution of 1789. In contempt of the regime of the time and because they could, people took stones from castles to build their own homes – this was one of those castles. Maybe, just maybe, that is where the term – ‘your home is your castle’ comes from. I can’t remember a time when I simply lay in bed not wanting to sleep – looking at the heavy beams above like a wooden web – at the same time glancing down at the lounge area through the railing in front and marveling at the solid stone walls all around. I awoke, not really wanting to leave but we had miles to go before….
The full moon lit the pre dawn sky and watched us through the oak trees, around the stone houses and cast shadows before us as we strode out to make good use of the quiet cool, while our energy levels were full from the night’s rest, and to get a few kms under our boots.
No villages all day we had been told so we had a break on the side of the track up against a tree, ‘bon chemin’ing’ a few walkers as they went past at different speeds depending on the state of their bodies.
On the move again and past 2 friendly French men, Corrie a little behind me found their pace a little more conducive and stayed with them awhile -they were doing a 10 day stint and finishing tomorrow. As she moved up to join me gathering clouds started to sweat a little and, alas, we had earlier removed our rain gear. Before it got too heavy the Lot Department supplied us with a sheltered bus stop just before a massive mob of sheep bleat us…sorry..to it. We changed and handed our ‘Lot change room’ over to 3 French women who were also unprepared.
Slight rises and falls made it an easy walk today and we know that the really hard stuff is behind us and our bodies are doing well. We passed 4 French women on a rare downhill slope, one of them walking backwards because her knee refused to do it the right way. This decline was part of a long final stretch into the commune of Cahors which lies in a wide valley where the river Lot does a u-turn around its inhabitants. Our lodgings are three stories up a wide spiral of stairs in a large room in a rustic run down part of the old city. No tourist would, I imagine, wander these lived-in streets that refuse to join the rampant renovators race.
Pierre is our landlord and what a character he seems to be – welcoming, engaging and with a few local generations responsible for his being here. We chatted for awhile as he told us about the many Australians that have also struggled up his stairs. We’ll spend 2 nights here, as this ‘commune of Cahors’ suggests there are good reasons to, and, I see poppies!
Thanks for more beautiful descriptions and photos, especially the field of poppies pic. It seems that the track is improving somewhat – from the recent Kokoda type drudgery, but still quite damp and muddy in places. The sheep “bleat” you to the shelter from the rain – did you write that just for me?
I wonder how yoit feet are holding up in all the mud, and if you are able to keep them dry. Also, how much distance have you covered? I guess there are times when you wonder why you are doing this, but then again Will, I think that you are the most determined bloke I’ve ever met, and Corrie is so amazingly supportive.
There’s not much happening of note back here in Aus, apart from heaps of rainn along the Pacific coast. Take care. Love, Mack.
Hi William and Coralie, Sorry it has taken me sooo long to log in and join you on your journey. I have spent the morning catching up on your adventure/s. Please don’t let anyone know that it was while I was at work. Your photos and the way you write have transported me to a wonderful place. It will be hard to focus for the rest of the day on the mundane things. You both are an inspiration to me – embracing what has confronted you. Thank you for the blog, your courage and inspiration. Anthony xo
I love the synchronicity that the Camino walk AJ and I did in 2011 began in Cahors where Yu are and tomorrow morning Is the beginning of my JakobsWeg in Austria. Nice.
Loving your daily posts – tho’ not confident of an Internet resource in rural Austria to enable me to read – will know soon enough!
Much love Sal xxx
Will and Corrie..we would love to get a record of all the great places you have stayed overnight, as I think this journey is at the top of our list to do now! I am os glad you had a more relaxing walk today and your castle home last night sounds amazing!