The icy cold has retreated with the welcome cloud cover warming us up and staying with us for the most part of the day. We turned off the track for breakfast after 7kms. After croissants we headed back to the track and 2kms later we were back in the same place. Our big dipper from the second day has turned into roundabouts in the fourth, but good ‘things’ often happen when the circus is in town.

The second time around these ‘things’ did occur. Firstly I convinced a Swiss man that a red and white cross meant you were going the wrong way whereas a white and red line meant you were on track (i.e. the camino or chemin in France). It appears he has been following crosses for days and couldn’t work out why he was getting lost. Secondly a photo I wanted to take was surrounded by cars – they had gone when our roundabout stopped.

Mostly undulating pathways through gorgeous grasslands but soon into deep creviced walkways, loose rock paths and tree rooted tracks as these once underground branches seemingly reached out grabbing the earth – their last hope of survival, as we regardless, just trod on their hands.

It was on these variegated trails that we met the elderly Vancouver couple -our age – reminiscent of our lovely Canadian friends in Spain last year. I walked with her and talked photos and relationships, while Corrie walked with this Canadian hockey player (still), swapping bad-knee stories. Then there were two less elderly men from the Alsace who helped me with French meal times – petit dejeuner – dejeuner – dinner – soupe (soup at midnight for the farmers who work in the evening cool). We also met up again with our you young Austrian friend who still had her shoes on as we talked about the Austrian love of beer and skiing, the latter’s price for a day pass in Australia is close to a season pass in Austria.

A very social day but it did not distract us from the quiet, clean and pretty stone villages on the Le Puy Chemin; the blossoms peeking out to see if milder temperatures had been turned on; the tulips and daffodils that never needed to peek, and just the feeling of walking in this special part of the world.

Our three course dinners continue to surprise and delight. In an elegant, rural getaway, we fine-dined with potato and zuchhini soup, roasted chicken surrounded by a welcome medley of roasted vegetables, and the best ice-cream ever. We are just about to head off to another surprise 3-course feast …. hope it’s good!