We are staying in what would be equal to a large country hotel in Australia, a three story old worldly mansion with wide stairways shiny bannisters and a strip of carpet down the centre run by a Canadian Portuguese couple who treat us like family. While it is efficiently busy on the inside a lot also happens on the outside
Our hotel is at the railway station but it is also old worldly so aesthetically pleasant to look out on. They were the lights in the sunrise photo some days ago. That sunrise photo was taken from our room so that greets us every morning staying out long enough to dry our clothes. Natural gas is being put under the road outside and is nearing completion. Like Rome, they double park here so when we hear a horn blowing there is sure to be some entertainment outside our room
Our breakfast place is 2 doors to the left and always packed, while our dinner place is 4 doors down and also very busy. They are also large grand rooms and wait for it, old worldly, with our waiter someone my age with a bow tie. The police are at one end of our street while the ambulance is at the other and when their sirens are quiet the local church bells beat out the time. Further afield we see beautiful hills and valleys that grace the stunning river Duoro which is partly responsible for one of the largest wine areas in Europe. In Porto, they are mostly on the other side of the river where we went walking this morning looking out over the river where the riversides are crowded with clusters of hillside homes like the Bosphorous in Istanbul but without the roof decks
Still looking for a story book on Portugal
Hello again dear Coralie and William
That photo of the big hill in today’s shots is quite something – how beautiful!
Here’s the next lot, to continue from all the previous days:
Day 22:
“The north star is the only light that reminds us that we are just another speck in a huge mostly unknown universe.”
This track was used by the Romans over 2000 years ago, in contrast to the bordering highway.
We pass through villages closely associated with the order of the Knights Templar.
The landforms haven’t changed much since Roman times
We cross paths again with our three Spanish women friends and reach the official half way mark of the Camino Frances. Talking to an older Australian man, whose Camino adventure will be part of a book he is hoping to publish with an artistic component. We also discover a mutual colleague from forty years ago.
Find that most Spaniards are like the one at this inn, very warm and welcoming.
Day 23:
Now leaving for the province of Leon – in 1188 this may have been the first parliament in Europe after the parliament of Iceland.
Have to make a big decision, for the faithful yellow arrows are now pointing two ways.
We take the Roman road – the path less travelled (sounds familiar!) and are on our own all day for the first time, except once when in Calzada de Coto we spend ten minutes with the village Ciguena (stork).
The chicks are now hatching and the population of storks has recently soared.
We keep walking in the silence of our own thoughts.
Day 24:
Meet up with our Kiwi and Welsh companions and had a chat over some ‘tapas’ with them and a Canadian couple.
Discover origin of ‘tapas’ – when eating a small piece of bread with savoury on, people used to put it on top of their drinks to keep the flies out, and, top means tapa.
When you leave in the dark, it’s vital the night before to check where the Camino goes, so you don’t get lost.
Move on to the longest extant Roman road in Spain – 25kms without a coffee shop and for the second day in a row, without people.
Great time to reflect on present and future decisions, and the voice exercises.
Have lunch in a tiny deserted railway station then westwards until my first ‘field of poppies’ in 400kms. This road less travelled was obviously meant for you, and a sonnet on poppies the end result.
Sydney man doing the walk very quickly with his daughter, enlightens on the importance of water and salt, and provides new understanding of my muscle spasms Will is getting – taste for water and salt coming up.
Day 25
Enjoying the orchestra of nature – the poplars, birds, rustling leaves, tumbling water (said in beautiful poetic words, William!).
Arrive at the Venetian-type medieval city of Leon. ‘We return after 12 months to this old city, streets leading us in directions we’d never thought of, a glimpse of the towering cathedral providing us with a landmark to bring us back to our in.’
The local police ‘guardia civil’, meet us at the edge of town, provide a map and answer queries.
Will’s losing toe nails he has been told not to remove and have a large blister, told not to burst.
Then sees a podiatrist who takes my nails off and bursts the blister – feels better!
Meet up with our Dutch and Austrian acquaintances dancing in a bar.
Talk to a young Spanish girl who is interested in the blog, having lost a relative to the side effects of Parkinsons.
Day 26:
‘A ‘Camino free day’ to explore the weaving streets of Leon.’
A fascinating city – seen by some as the first democracy in Europe.
Has a church open day and night.
Will writes a sonnet that speaks to two vital parts of Leon’s culture: Gothic architecture and freedom.
Day 27:
Leave Leon for the second time – loved it. Will left his shoes for the last time – tried to love them but they didn’t love you!
Now having an intimate love affair with “New Balance” shoes.
After two hours we stop for a coffee and have a chat with an Irish couple who are doing the walk in three stages.
Enter the thriving village of Villar de Mazarife, ‘where the three stork bell tower is once again fully booked’.
Meet up with two Dutch women we had talked to in other village – one has a blog and is raising funds for ‘Downs Syndrome’ children, so we swap blogs.
Day 28
Have a ‘pilgrim’s menu’ with our Canadian, Kiwi/Welsh and three Dutch friends and meet a lovely English couple from East London.
Tasty dinner with lovely people in exquisite environment and delightful hosts makes for late night – 10.00pm.
‘Late because the doors are locked in our Albergue at 10.00 pm, and a quick sprint seems a ludicrous way to end a 25kms walk.’
To get to our private room we have to find our way through a dark 30 bed dormitory (about 10 occupied) and not disturb others.
Leave with same rules of not disturbing others but this time a real test – 2 heavy cases and stairs.
We leave for the first time with others.
Aiming for Hospital de Orbigo – a reference to hospitals for pilgrims in medieval times, and cross one of the longest and best preserved thirteenth century medieval bridges in Spain.