A glorious sunrise coloured our window pane asking for a photo but not to join it on its early morning wanderings, reminding us we could lie a little longer and stay in our room for more than one night, no need to act like an escaped criminal anymore. We also bought our train ticket early quelling the urge to walk to Lisbon
It’s a beautiful place and a sunny stroll through the city today delivers more delights as does another visit to the river Duoro this time from high up on the valley wall offering a different perspective through trees and between buildings. We walked, ate and took pictures not much different to the Camino
In my short time here I can’t help a subjective comparison to Spain. The Spanish do not have a problem with noise, a couple of people talking sound like a winning soccer team, whereas a winning Portuguese side sounds like two people talking. Where the Spanish will treat you like their neighbour, the Portuguese treat you like their family. In a traffic jam the Spanish will blow their horn after a minute where the Portuguese will wait for two.
My next adventure will be to a book store to buy a book on Portugal to inform myself more on these kind and thoughtful people
Hello again dear friends.
Interesting to read your description of differences between the Spanish and the Portugese.
Here is the next summary, as I see it, of key experiences along your amazing pilgrimage.
Day 15:
Get to St Juan, have intimate time in the only bar of this tiny town with 25 walkers,, guests of a father and two sons.
Then onto the very big town of Burgos – delightful cafe, then steep hills and various pilgrims showing interest in Parkinsons.
Burgos is known for archaeological digs where one million year old human remains (and 10th century Spanish languages) have been found.
First walk-free day tomorrow!
Asked a Spaniard for directions, who generously walked us 1 km to a five-star looking hotel, with one-star prices.
Day 16:
Stroll around Burgos – enough walking for one day!
Opportunity to raise awareness about Parkinsons.
Local woman with the disease who cycles to resist the muscle weakness – a relief for her to be able to talk about it.
Medieval streets provide a canvas for a grand cathedral displaying creative genius in its architecture.
Day 17:
Walked into deserted Panchos – quiet hour alone with shop owner – very entertaining, with tapas on the house.
Enter medieval one-street village of Hornillos.
Breathe in the ancient stories which inspires Will to write a sonnet that captures something of the mysteries and ghosts of the past.
Day 18:
Undulations flattening into vast plains, hugging the forever winding pathway.
Meet keen German walker who has friend with Parkinsons, showing big interest in this.
Obvious that the silence experienced in Bayonne has never left you both – most villages are silent, as are most pilgrims.
Delightful interlude at Castrojeriz, taking a good break to swap unavoidable foot stories.
The inevitable poppies in the photos!
Day 19:
Very long steep hill lying in wait – not too exciting for Coralie, who has battled fever and little sleep – but who makes it with great resilience.
Continue along open plains of Meseta (high plateau covering over 40% of Spain).
Many villages abandoned and./or inhabited by older people, as the younger ones have left in the 1960’s/1970’s in search of work elsewhere.
Day 20:
Pass through Fromista and some unusually designed churches.
Both passing others and being passed by others on the journey.
Then Villacazar de Singa in provence of Palencia.
See a senora Spanish stork for second time, waiting patiently for senior stork to bring breakfast.
Day 21:
Leave village at now regular time of 6.30 am.
Reach Carrion and then 17 kms without any suitable place to rest.
Subtle messages when people on journey don’t want to communicate!
Enlightening to talk to three local women, who educate re the surrounding mountains of Picos de Carrion and Pico de Europa.
Re-meet Irish, Kiwi, Welsh and French pilgrims.
Met at new lodgings by the friendliest hosts.
Many pilgrims in bad shape this far, and at the end of the day – hard to tell who has Parkinsons (apart from Will with his visible message) and who doesn’t.
With love
Narayan and Janine